Flavio al Velavevodetto

Built into the slopes of Monte Testaccio (the ancient Roman amphora-shard hill that gives the neighbourhood its name), this trattoria has dining rooms with glass walls showing the embedded amphora fragments. Beyond the unique setting, the food is solid traditional Roman — carbonara, amatriciana, gnocchi, oxtail. Booking essential for dinner. A memorable meal experience as much for the setting as the food.