Sant'Andrea delle Fratte

Most visitors never make it here, but two of Bernini's most beautiful angels, originally carved for Ponte Sant'Angelo in 1668-70, stand here flanking the altar — Pope Clement IX deemed them too precious to be exposed to the weather and replaced them on the bridge with copies. The bell tower and dome by Borromini are unmistakably his — the lantern is a spiral of stone flames spiralling upward. Site of a famous 1842 Marian apparition that converted the French Jewish banker Alphonse Ratisbonne, who became a Catholic priest.