Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara

Rome's oldest street food is the filetto di baccalà — salt cod fillet dipped in egg, battered, and deep-fried until crisp, served in a paper cone. Dar Filettaro is the city's most beloved specialist: tiny, cash-only, intensely atmospheric. The baccalà arrives crackling and golden; add a sliver of lemon and eat standing. A 4-euro experience that transports you to another Rome. Also serves puntarelle (seasonal chicory salad) when in season.