Galleria Doria Pamphilj

Still a privately-owned aristocratic palace and one of Rome's most underrated collections, built up over four centuries by the intermarried Doria, Pamphilj, and Aldobrandini families. Houses Velázquez's Innocent X (the family pope, who hated the portrait but it stayed), Caravaggio's Magdalene and Rest on the Flight, Titians, Raphaels, and a stunning Hall of Mirrors. The audio tour is unusually personal — the current Prince narrates his own family's history.